The Kerguelen Islands Stop Over

Introduction

09.04.2008 - James and Rob stop briefly in the Kerguelen Islands to re-stock before the push to Sydney.

After 40 days at Sea we finally sighted the Kerguelen Islands on Sunday 6th April. The passage from the Falkland Islands went relatively smoothly, with only a handful of gales, and although slower than we hoped we were very grateful not to have had worse conditions. None the less, it was certainly a testing few weeks and we were forced to learn and adapt quickly.

The Kerguelen Islands are a small rocky group, situated at 50 degrees South and roughly beneath India. Although a French territory hardly anyone ever comes here and at present there are just 70 scientists inhabiting it's shores. Our first view was very impressive, towering cliffs topped by jagged peaks and glaciers and the shoreline was heavily indented with numerous fjords and outlying islets. It instantly gave the impression of being ancient, untouched and impenetrable. Spirits onboard were up and we were all excited at seeing something other than Ocean. As we got closer we could smell the land, an intoxicating blend of earth and moss which has become so foreign.

In the encroaching darkness we made our way up a small fjord using Blizzards radar, and found a sheltered spot to anchor in before enjoying our first undisturbed nights sleep in over 6000 miles. The following day we woke up to some unbelievable views, surrounded by green hills and higher snow capped mountains; the excitement grew as we prepared to make landfall. After inflating the dinghy and filling it with empty water containers, we navigated our way through the fields of kelp to the rocky shore. Knowing there was a strong possibility that no-one had ever set foot there before, made our first few steps even more of an occasion to treasure.

After exploring the source of the nearest waterfall, and discovering an untouched glacial valley, we began the tiring work of filling and ferrying 25 litre water drums back and forth to Blizzard to replenish her 900 litre tanks. It was an exhausting procedure, but just being on land was enough reward. We finished by stripping off and jumping into the icy plunge pool for a quick wash before returning to the Yacht for dinner.

Pressed for time we were forced to tear ourselves from the Islands far too soon, only spending one further night before lifting the anchor and restarting our voyage South on April 8th; exactly one year since the expedition began. From here we must complete a further 2500 miles, and another 5 time zones, through much colder conditions if we are to reach the Magnetic South Pole. This will be the most testing part of the voyage, and we can only hope for favourable weather and few icebergs. Thank you so much for your continued support as we face our last hurdle, and we hope to send further news within 3 weeks.

With Best Wishes,

Rob and James